My post about adding backlighting to the TV led to follow-up questions about what it is and what solution I used, so here are the details. I had wanted to set up this kind of backlight, synchronized with the image on the TV, for a long time. I recall my first attempts at this over 10 years ago, but back then the solutions were very DIY and had questionable reliability. Now, however, it’s quite a popular category of home devices, especially with the widespread availability of “smart” LED light strips.

There are a few options for TV backlighting: one involves a camera mounted on the TV that scans the image on the screen and adjusts the backlight accordingly. The second option is more complex in that it processes the video signal itself, which passes through HDMI from the source to the TV. This second method is more reliable and faster, but also significantly more expensive. While writing this note, I thought that it’s a feature that can be built-in right into TVs —and I discovered those TVs do exist.

Hardware

I decided to go with the second option, based on the Philips Hue system, which is a proven solution for HDMI signal processing. Besides the main device (the Sync Box), you’ll also need an LED strip (also Philips, of course), and a Hue Hub to link these devices together. Naturally, the Hub brings you into the broader Philips smart device ecosystem, which I personally didn’t need. I would have preferred if the LED strip could connect directly to the Sync Box – no WiFi, no hub. The total cost of these three devices at regular price comes out to nearly $700, though with various sales and discounts I managed to get the set for just over $400. Still, it feels like a lot of money for some lights behind a TV.

Setup

Setup overall isn’t too difficult, but it will heavily depend on what devices you have at home and how they are connected. In a simple setup—say, Apple TV or another streaming box, and gaming console(s) connected to the TV via HDMI, all devices will connect into the Sync Box via HDMI. From there, a single HDMI cable goes to the TV. Audio can be connected separately to an AV receiver or some other way. For Samsung and LG TVs, Philips offers an app that runs directly on the TV and can also synchronize the image with backlight.

However, the app costs money too ($130), and it only supports the latest TV models starting in 2024. It also requires the TV to be connected to the internet—which I personally try to avoid, as I don’t like my data being sold left and right. Also, even with this app setup, you’ll need the hub and LED strip, so the total cost still ends up around $300–$350 even with discounts. In short, the app wasn’t an option for me—especially since my TV is already 3 or 4 years old.

HomePod

Of course, with my particular device setup, things couldn’t be simple – I just love complicating things. At one point, I tried to be clever and, instead of using a soundbar, I went with a pair of Apple HomePods. The speakers are connected wirelessly via AirPlay to the Apple TV, which outputs sound to them. But I also have a couple of game consoles, and I wanted the sound from those to go to the HomePods too. To do that, I use ARC (Audio Return Channel) technology, which is supported by the latest generations of Apple TV.

Basically, when sound from the PlayStation or Xbox reaches the TV, it travels back over HDMI to the Apple TV via the return channel, and from there it’s sent to the HomePods. Overall, the setup isn’t that complicated and actually pretty convenient—especially since first-gen HomePods sound quite good, particularly as a stereo pair.

HDMI

But things get messy when another HDMI device is introduced. In theory, since the TV, Apple TV, and Hue Sync Box all support ARC/eARC, the setup should work like this:

• all devices are connected to the Sync Box via HDMI
• then the Sync Box is connected via HDMT to the TV’s eARC/ARC port
• audio is sent back from the PlayStation/Xbox to the Apple TV via ARC cables
• and finally audio goes to the HomePods.

But in reality, when I connected things that way, the sound from the consoles didn’t make it to the Apple TV. Faced with the choice between games with “no backlight but with sound” or “backlight but no sound,” I went with the first option.

I could’ve used headphones instead, but I’m too lazy to keep them charged all the time. So for now, only the Apple TV is connected to the Sync Box, and the movies and shows I watch on it have backlight enabled, while the consoles are connected to the TV directly. In theory, if I had gone with the app or camera route for backlight solution, the wiring wouldn’t matter as much—but I’m not one to take the easy path. All of this could also have been avoided if I hadn’t overcomplicated things with HomePods and just bought a normal soundbar. Maybe I’ll find something on sale eventually and switch away from HomePods—then backlight and sound would work for all sources. Philips also offers some recommendations on optimal device setup.

Was it worth it?

The big question, of course—was it worth it? The technology is impressive, though I’ll admit I’m easily impressed. But the visual effect of “extending” the screen with ambient backlight really is cool—it adds impact to the content, though not always. I recently watched the Warfare movie, which uses a very “sandy” color palette to emphasize that the events take place in Iraq. But when a red curtain appeared on screen, the TV backlight blasted a bright red light that stood out awkwardly from the overall tones of the movie and was distracting.

On the other hand, a Grand Tour episode, with its maxed-out saturation and HDR, expanded beautifully with the backlight and “deepened the immersion” in the vibrant visuals. In those moments, you really get that “wow” feeling and think “this was worth it.” I’d wanted to do this for a long time, and I’m happy with the result. The family approves too—so the money wasn’t wasted.